"KIMONO-DRESS"

I had a special request from a new client.   

She had an antique KIMONO from Japan.  And she wanted make a dress from it.

I was not sure I'll take that project or not till I saw that Kimono.  When I saw it I knew I had to say "Yes" to her.  Kimono was already taken apart and dry-cleaned.  If I had to do that I wouldn't take that project.  You may not know how much time it will take to make into flat fabric from a KIMONO.  Most of Vintage KIMONOS are hand sewn but it has so many more seams than you may think. Specially AWASE (lined Kimono) has so much hidden stitching you don't see...

It has much unnoticeable damage all over, but I saw possibility to make a dress from it.  And the fabric was a beautiful and unusual Floral design on it.   

So it started with design sketches for the dress.

Followed by taking measurements & making patterns for the dress.

I needed to do fittings with Muslin before started to cut the actual fabrics.

Usually for a dress I need to have 1~3 fittings( depending on it's design).  Muslin is a 100% plain cotton fabric that comes in a few thickness.  So, I have to choose which one is similar thickness to fabric I will be using for the garment.

Important thing for client to remember is to bring a pair of shoes you will be pairing with the dress for 2nd or final fittings.  Believe it or not a Client's posture will change dramatically by the height of heels. I always encourage them to have a high-heel they can walk with.  I think higher is better for the sexy dresses...

photos right after fittings.

The correction for the patterns happened at this stage.

Some details such as Neckline, Armhole, and Hemline had changed. 

I also added some details here and there...

Carefully Cutting KIMONO Fabric into Dress Pieces.

Cutting lining for the dress.  I use China Silk for lining.

Before the final fitting, 
Part of linings are sewn into the dress.

Side seams are still in hand stitching.

The Dress is Completed !

A Matching Sash could be worn as a stole or loosely tied at Low Hip Line. 

I received few photos after she picked up the dress. 
Along with the articles she posted on her Blog.
Here is part of it.

"My project of making my late grandma's (she passed away 7 years age at age of 98, possibly her mother's) Kimono fabric into a custom dress is finally done! It wouldn't have been possible without help of wonderful people.

First; I showed the fabric to my friend who was visiting my place and she enthusiastically recommended to do it. I asked several American tailors and dressmakers. But no one seemed to handle such a delicate fabric. So the project was up in the air for a while. However I asked another friend of mine and she introduced me a Japanese Designer Hiroki who lives in Chelsea and the rest is history.

After we agreed with a rough design, we decided each details with fun discussion at 2 fittings. It was a creative process and very exciting. Since this is a vintage fabric (100-years-old or possibly older) he found lots of not noticeable but damaged spots. He placed patterns logically(?) and cut the fabric with avoiding those spots. It was a painstaking work, but he did it willingly and wonderfully.

Because this is a dericale fabric, many parts were handsewn. A seamstress whom he has been working with for 40 years patched fragile parts with extra fabric after cutting.

With these wonderful help from wonderfull people, I was able to receive such a wonderful dress. Ed, my husband also did a great job. He set up a make-shift photo studio with hanging a sheet from the ceiling and took photos. I showed photos to my mom and she loved it. I believe my grandma, a modern girl who was born and grew up in Tokyo, also would love this my New Dress."

I also received a photo when she wore the dress for the first time.

Which was her birthday celebration dinner.